Saturday, January 22, 2011


Today was different. Instead of my daily routine of waking up in a warm bed, packing up my bodyboarding stuff and heading to the beach I woke up at the beach, packed up my bodyboarding stuff and headed home.

When I got home a few friends and I went to a certain area and made the walls pretty while I took photos. Got some nice photos and overall had a sick mission.


Grueling process


Masterpiece. 3 hours later

Monday, January 17, 2011


Missioned far and wide this morning in search of waves. Happened to stumble accross paranoia point doing its thing and headed in. Its a very flat wave starting off with a pretty gnarly drop and gives you very long rides. I did manage to get one barrel that i'm stoked with but thats about it.

This is the only photo you get today.

Friday, January 14, 2011

Only west coast

Less lazyness means more froth for you. This is from a recent trip.

No explanation needed. Just froth on them. Keep them private.

Thursday, January 13, 2011


Too be completely honest I am just far to lazy to fetch my camera at the moment to load my latest photos. Nothing great anyway. I have been surfing very little lately speniding most of my time doing fuckall just chilling. Quite shit. But I will be focusing hard on my surfing now and getting fit.

Going to be in Onrus this weekend. The swell is looking rather tasty and hoping to score some nuggets.

Other big things to come.

Thursday, January 6, 2011

liquid deep

So the west cosat is 1 up on me. For sure. Went up te coast yesterday in hope of some fun waves and hopefully some shots. We got the shots but the waves were far from just fun. Something next level. Quite scary sitting out there watching 5 foot sets unravelling onto a rock about the size of an average car and doing things you could never imagine. I did however manage to pull off 2 flips, one of which was out of a barrel, but I must admit, i'm not near skilled enough to surf that wave.

I also managed to loose my board. Yes my new one. Yes im sad. But it happened. And being sad about it would be pointless.

Here are some photos of the trip. A very memorable one.

Resembling shark island

Bowls are plenty

This still scares me

Yes I did get pitted

The wave that barreled me and provided the section for a flip

Waves like these were normal. My balls were too small to suck up enough courage.

free fall

Action photos by Chris Bolton

Sunday, January 2, 2011

Happy happy

Sorry for this very delayed blog post but I have been at Stil bay for the past week. Had good times, unfortunately no surf but nothing wrong with that either.

The new year has started and how better to start it than a trip up the coast? I might be hitting the west coast for a day or 2 this week which should be sick.

I do not have any new photos for you but here are some from the archives

Here we have Sheldon Keyser on a wave while Vlooi Botha goes nuts on the shoulder. Onrus guys are full on legends. The wave itself is just as big of a legend having offered me plenty ramps and barrels in the 3 short years that I have been surfing there.

Yes a similar photo of this wave has graced the viewing on this blog plenty times. But to be honest I dont think anyone of you realise what this really is. A 6ft open running reef, all unsurfed. Exploration is the key to survival with crowds growing. Just as a comparison look at the boat in the upper left corner of the photo and compare it to the wave.

This is a photo taken by a friend of mine, Jandre Coetzee. This was my first time surfing at this wave and I have been hooked ever since. Still one of the more protected spots on our coast it secrecy is quickly been uncovered. And for that reason I will give no further information.

Winter is a powerful thing. Brings in numerous cold fronts one after another beating on the coast and where the swells meet with a well constructed piece of reef crazy things occur. This wave is one of the better big wave spots in South Africa, whens its on it often resembles padang padang. It was not on this day.

Rivers mouths. They create these dark, polluted looking water colours that might scare off many contenders but is at the same time one of the weirdest looking things I have seen. With the water almost pitch black it creates an eery vibe in the water but makes those barrels even more epic.